COCOSOLO February 2013

More than 6 months since the last post! I always thought that this Blog would be intermittent. Anyway, here goes again ....

Perhaps the most swingeing of the changes in the regulations which apply to education in Ecuador, which were thrust upon us in August last year, is the obligatory change of the academic year into two, 10 week quimesters. The first of those finished Friday 1st of February, and was to be followed by a two week vacation. The British School Quito kept going for the first of those weeks, using the week for meetings and reviews, and for teaching our IB students, who were asked to come in. The second week we were rewarded with a well deserved holiday, which coincided with Quito Carnival. Good incentive to get out of the city!

Stunning sunsets each night

John, Robbie and Maia headed for their beloved Manabí beaches, but tried a new destination, Cocosolo, some 20 km north of Pedernales. Recommended by some Pachamama friends, it proved to be just what we hoped it would be - gorgeous beaches, wonderful food, peace and quiet, some stunning sunsets, and all more or less affordable. 

The trip was a BSQ science teachers' families outing. We were accompanied by Paul, his wife Ximena, young Sisa and the even younger, 2 month old Edward. Paul is the teacher of Physics at BSQ, as well as having a mountain of other responsibilities in school. Also with us was our new teacher of Chemistry, Sarah Kucera, her husband Phil Johnson, who is presently looking after EAL support at BSQ, and their 3 year old, Isaac.

Beaches as far as you can see

The Manabí beaches are hard to surpass, and those north of Pedernales are some of the very best. Cocosolo sits only a few metres behind the high tide mark on its beach and whether you look north or south, you cannot see the limits of the wide sands. Perhaps 20 km of sandy beach, without a break. The beaches here are fringed with coconut palms. 

Fishing nets, cups and plates, bottles - Pedernales rubbish

The lack of villages and fishing communities north of Pedernales means that the sea water is beautifully clean and the beaches are pristine - almost! Given that we were some 20 km away north or south from the nearest towns, it was sad to see the awful plastic rubbish which the high tides brought up each day. Awful? Scandalous, really! The Pacific currents drift northwards so perhaps much of the rubbish had its origins in Pedernales, which was packed with  Carnival revellers when we came through on the way to Cocosolo. 

Sisa with Maia, digging for gold in the sand in front of Cocosolo

Having seen the rapid coastal erosion further south, around Don Juan and Samvara, and also witnessed two years ago the might of the seas destroying the fishing village of Don Juan during a wind-driven, Spring high tide, it was curious to find Cocosolo so close to the edge of the sea, and with no defences or sea wall to safeguard it. Evidently they seldom have the huge waves and high tides we have seen before, and the beach may actually be getting wider, as sand from further south is deposited here. Robbie gave us all confidence by pointing out that even a small tsunami would quickly wipe out Cocosolo!

They were still digging the next day!

The water was warm enough for the children to spend all day in the sea between the high tides and both Robbie and Maia learnt to surf the little waves well. The swimming pool was filled daily with sea water and if the tide was high and the waves dangerous, the children simply transferred into the pool, spending much of their time on a big rubber tube. And if they weren't in the water, they were in the sand!

Robbie showing off his lobster trap

Early morning walks exploring the beach were a good way to get an appetite up for the big buffet breakfast of local food. Later in the day, the sun was too strong and the sand too hot for these walks. Not many sea shells to be found on these beaches, and even crabs were few but instead a plethora of plastic debris and junk on the top of the sand and of course, an abundance of those pesky little, invisible sand flies which bite so furiously - 'no-seeums'! Robbie and John one morning found two lobster pots washed up and this was the only evidence of fishing of any sort, although there are apparently plenty of big fish to be caught about 700 metres out, where the coastal shelf drops down and the cold water wells up.

Cocosolo is about 15 years old and is one of the remaining fractions of a vast coastal hacienda which was divided between 8 conflictive family members. Most of those parcels of land have now been sold off though fortunately not yet built on. Some remain as coconut palm plantations. The 'hotel' consists of its main, original building, surrounded by several cabins. It is all a bit hotch-potch and higgledy-piggledy - an on-going project. There is even an aquarium of sorts whose only residents seem to be snakes and a bright green lizard, who live outside the tanks. What does one want on the coast? Good beaches and sand and sea. Secure, clean rooms. Good beds and showers. Good food. Hospitable service and management. A laid back atmosphere. All our needs were catered for, with a resounding, "Yes!". The owner seemed to spend much of her time in a corner of the restaurant, watching bad TV programmes, while her daughter Valentina ran Cocosolo, efficiently and in a most welcoming way. Valentina certainly looked after our meals superbly and was easily able to cope with vegetarian needs, allergies, children who wouldn't eat shrimps or lobsters and our other particular needs. After being booked full for the Carnival week, the hotel only had a few other guests - we chose our dates well! 

Pizza for the children

Lobsters for the adults

So what didn't work out? Obviously billing is not a strong point of the hotel staff and we all had to correct quite big errors. Sun burn - yes, the sun was intense and although  Robbie and Maia simply turned black, the rest of us frizzled, despite taking all precautions.

Milk for baby Edward

Sarah with young Isaac

A great and convivial holiday! Different from Samvara, which is a perhaps more expensive, is not actually on the beach, but does have super cabins and rooms and a great atmosphere, and is still our best bet for Christmas. Use the link along-side to find out about Cococolo.

Robbie at home in the sand

Isaac in the King's seat!

An edit of one of the photos above to give a lovely shot of Maia

(And as a post-script ... while I have been writng up this blog, Robbie and Maia have been watching a DVD of Just William stories. Brilliant! That brings back memories. Thanks Pippa!)

For all the remaining photos of this trip, follow this Picasa Album link: Cocosolo photoalbum