SAMVARA - CHRISTMAS 2011. Part 1

Maia, Robbie and Sisa show off their many presents. Lucky
children!

Spending Christmas at Samvara (see link), on the northern coast of Manabí province, has become something of a custom now. This was our third Christmas visit and the second time we have shared Christmas with Paul Tonkinson, Ximena and Sisa, and Paul's parents, visiting from England. The coast and beaches of Manabí are truly superb! Kilometres of pristine sand are interrupted by jutting headlands, a few small fishing villages and a small, but increasing number of tourist developments. Pick your time and you have these beaches to yourself. Christmas is one of those times and we love it! As we drive back each year after Christmas, we cheerfully wave to all the hordes descending from Quito for the New Year on the beach. We carry down to Samvara all the Christmas presents, which are opened after breakfast on Christmas Day. Of course Santa also manages to route his sleigh through Manabí and so stockings get filled, which adds to the fun.

Benno Dubach is the man! One of many Swiss in Ecuador, he established Samvara Eco-Lodge a few years ago, buying up several hectares beside the fishing village of Don Juan. Here he now has cabins up on the hillside with spectacular views of the ocean, rooms and a camping ground around the swimming pool, and a restaurant. Benno looks after the cooking himself and provided us with a lovely Christmas Eve, Swiss fondue supper.

Alessandro, his lovely wife Cary, and baby
daughter. Cary is expecting #2 in 5 months.

Ecuador's coast has become home to several 'immigrants', such as Benno. In the short stretch of Manabi coast where we perpetually stay, we have come across Alessandro, who runs Hacienda El Peperoncini (see link). He is now a good friend, whom we always visit for a home-made pasta meal, served with exotic juices and postres (desserts) made from fruits on his 'estate'. Close by Punta Prieta lives a Frenchman, who home schools his two youngsters. Near Tasaste is a retired British naval man, living in a huge house he has built for himself on the top of a cliff. It seems to be idyllic for these families but it is not all easy. The local 'mafia' interferes often enough; services do not function all the time; and the weather plays its part - there has been no rain on this part of the coast for over 6 months. Water is a scarce commodity at present.

Going to Samvara for Christmas 2010. Lunch break near El Comunal.

We wondered this year if we were ever actually going to make it to Samvara. Poor Ximena had been ill for some days and was not up to the journey. On top of this, she is pregnant again! Wonderful news for Paul and Ximena, and for Sisa, who is not quite sure how she will handle a little brother or sister. A few days before we left, John's Toyota decided that it was not fit to travel! Successfully repairing the damaged carburetor proved difficult and our departure was touch and go for a time. Then John wrecked his back, lifting big boxes at home, just the day before we were due to leave. After shoulder surgery in October, a cartilage problem in a knee which flared up in November, this was too much!!! We needed a whole day to reach Samvara, with many stops along the way. One of those stops was beside a beautiful river in a village called El Comunal, some 20 km from El Carmen. We have stopped there every single time we have used the Santo Domingo route to and from the coast.

The journey back was not much better. The searing heat until we left the coastal zone, made travelling difficult. Paul's puncture delayed us. Then a meal in Puerto Quito which took an hour to deliver. The children were admirably patient in all this travelling. We returned to Quito using the La Concordia/Esmeraldas route - less traffic and fast roads, but a good 60 km longer than the other route through Santo Domingo.